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The following has interested us at some point, maybe inspired our approach to design.

~ Wednesday, April 25 ~
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ANCIENT MODS UPDATE, 4/25/12 - The Long Shaft [900-1470ce]

North Coast ear ornaments typically have a long shaft that balanced the weight of the glorious frontal. This pair illustrates Chimú interest in the sea, which had great economic and religious importance. On the shafts are bands of seabirds and waves, and a similar pattern edges the frontals, which were altered in modern times. Originally solid disks, the frontals’ centers were cut out and a dotted band was added to the rim.” - Cleveland Museum of Art

Ear Flare

Creator - Peru, North Coast, Chimú Style
Culture - South American; Pre-Columbian; Chimú
Date - 900-1470
Period - Pre-Columbian
Materials - Hammered Gold Alloy
Dimensions - Diameter 8cm, 
Repository - The Cleveland Museum of Art, Cleveland, Ohio, USA
Website - http://www.clemusart.com/
ID Number - CMA_.1947.180.2

Tags: ancient mods update peru chimu ear flare gold cleveland museum of art precolumbian art jewelry antique body modification elongated earlobes stretched ears stretching plugs gauges tunnels eyelets flares
150 notes
~ Sunday, April 8 ~
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ANCIENT MODS UPDATE, 4/8/12 - In Context

I am fond of this first image as a rare display of a full suite of golden ornaments around a body figure. I was lucky enough to travel to Cuzco and Machu Picchu, the heart of the Incan Empire, and can only imagine how absolutely breathtaking these displays would have been in the high andean mountain ranges in glaring summer sun.

Note that the large discs near the head are tapered earspools, much like those seen in the second image, whose shafts are embossed with geometric patterning. The collection of figures in high relief are not solid cast objects, but are hammered up from thin sheets of gold.

Image #1: Parure
Culture - Chimu
Date - 850-1470 c.e.
Period - Late Intermediate Period
Region - Coastal Peru
Materials - Gold
Repository - Museo Arquelogico Rafael Larco Herrera. Lima, Peru.

Image #2: Pair of Ear Plugs
Culture - Chimu
Date - 12th - 15th Century
Period - Pre-Columbian
Region - Peru
Materials - Gold
Dimensions - 13.5 cm
Repository - Private Collection.

Tags: body modification Ancient Mods Update south america inca precolumbian art ear spools peru ear plugs stretched ears plugs gauges gold chimu machu picchu body mods modification culture
129 notes
~ Wednesday, January 4 ~
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Process is inspiring… and challenging. You get an idea for something, but making it happen is the hard part. Finally back in the studio, now I’m getting closer to having the vision in hand. 

Tags: body jewelry plugs gauges tunnels flares stretched ears stretched lobes stretching meriken metals ryan holandes titanium custom pointilism
52 notes
~ Sunday, January 1 ~
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ANCIENT MODS UPDATE, 1/1/12 - RESPECT (14th century, South America)
Pair of Ear Ornaments
Culture - ChimuDate -14th-15th CenturyPeriod - Pre-ColumbianRegion - South AmericaMaterials - Silver and goldDimensions -12.1 cmRepository - Metropolitan Museum of Art. New York, New YorkWebsite - http://www.metmuseum.org
 

ANCIENT MODS UPDATE, 1/1/12 - RESPECT (14th century, South America)

Pair of Ear Ornaments

Culture - Chimu
Date -14th-15th Century
Period - Pre-Columbian
Region - South America
Materials - Silver and gold
Dimensions -12.1 cm
Repository - Metropolitan Museum of Art. New York, New York
Website - http://www.metmuseum.org

 

Tags: Ancient Mods Update Meriken Metals Chimu Pre-Columbian Art Pre-Columbian Gold stretched ears stretched lobes gauges plugs ear spools silver gold south america
425 notes
~ Monday, December 5 ~
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ANCIENT MODS UPDATE, 12/5/11 - Winged Runners (2nd-5th Century C.E.)
Don’t you think those three dollar acrylic pot leaf plugs they have on ebay are just dope?!
No. This is.
“On the north coast of Peru, where the Moche peoples were dominant during much of the first millennium A.D., the most fashionable ear ornaments were those with wide circular frontals, often with a border of hollow spheres, and long tubular shafts to counterbalance the weight of the frontals. A particularly impressive group is decorated with colorful mosaics of such materials as turquoise, sodalite, quartz, pyrite, and spondylus, or spiny oyster, shell. On this pair they depict winged, bird-headed (or masked) runners holding small white bags in their outstretched hands. Their eyes and beaks are sheathed in gold. They are thought to be mythological messengers. The runners face in opposite directions, an orientation followed on the north coast of Peru for well over a thousand years.” 
Heidi King, Gold in Ancient America (The metropolitan Museum of Art Bulletin, New Series, Vol. 59, No. 4, Gold of the Americas (Spring 2002), pp.5-55 
Pair of Earflares (Winged Runners)
Culture - Peru; Moche Date - 3rd-7th centuryMeasurements - 3 3/16 inch (8cm)Material - Hammered gold, turquoise, sodalite, shellIdentification # - 12941Repository - The Metropolitan Museum of ArtWebsite - http://www.metmuseum.org
(“Ancient Mods Update” is a public awareness campaign, aimed at reducing the number of beautiful bodies lost to bad design… learn more @ www.merikenmetals.com) 

ANCIENT MODS UPDATE, 12/5/11 - Winged Runners (2nd-5th Century C.E.)

Don’t you think those three dollar acrylic pot leaf plugs they have on ebay are just dope?!

No. This is.

“On the north coast of Peru, where the Moche peoples were dominant during much of the first millennium A.D., the most fashionable ear ornaments were those with wide circular frontals, often with a border of hollow spheres, and long tubular shafts to counterbalance the weight of the frontals. A particularly impressive group is decorated with colorful mosaics of such materials as turquoise, sodalite, quartz, pyrite, and spondylus, or spiny oyster, shell. On this pair they depict winged, bird-headed (or masked) runners holding small white bags in their outstretched hands. Their eyes and beaks are sheathed in gold. They are thought to be mythological messengers. The runners face in opposite directions, an orientation followed on the north coast of Peru for well over a thousand years.” 

Heidi King, Gold in Ancient America (The metropolitan Museum of Art Bulletin, New Series, Vol. 59, No. 4, Gold of the Americas (Spring 2002), pp.5-55 

Pair of Earflares (Winged Runners)

Culture - Peru; Moche 
Date - 3rd-7th century
Measurements - 3 3/16 inch (8cm)
Material - Hammered gold, turquoise, sodalite, shell
Identification # - 12941
Repository - The Metropolitan Museum of Art
Website - http://www.metmuseum.org

(“Ancient Mods Update” is a public awareness campaign, aimed at reducing the number of beautiful bodies lost to bad design… learn more @ www.merikenmetals.com


Tags: Ancient Mods Update Ancient America Body Jewelry Gauges Gold Jewelry Meriken Metals Plugs Precolumbian Art Ryan Holandes Stretch Stretcher Stretched Ears Ears Earring Holes Piercing Body Mods Body Modification modification mods tunnels flares big lobes gold turquoise stone pot plugs
8 notes
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ANCIENT MODS UPDATE, 12/4/11 - Gold Standard (2nd Century C.E.)
I wonder if this would be acceptable today - wearing an earring post about 3/4” in diameter with a front face of 3”. I suspect there might be an underlying machismo that would interpret this as “pretending” to have ears stretched larger than they actually are.  
Size isn’t all that matters though. Symbolism and substance count too. 
In many cultures, costume was a mechanism for conveying status (or identity), and being able to effectively communicate this is important to understanding how people ought to relate to you. A large front diameter, besides creating an iconic silhouette of authority, allows a broader planar dimension in which to craft a clear symbol - in this case of a pair of mirrored condors.
“The Andean condor, identified by the large caruncle at the base of its beak and the wattle around its neck, is the largest bird of prey alive today. A frequent theme in Moche art, condors may have been associated with predation, death, and sacrifice…” (HK)
The physical matter from which this ornament is fabricated - silver, gold and shell - were often reserved for elite members of ancient South American cultures. Copper and lesser stones would be permissible for lower members with rare materials, like spondylus shell, being especially prized. Consider that, 
“For the peoples of ancient America gold was endowed with spiritual and symbolic meaning. The Inka of Peru thought of gold as the rain of the sun, a major deity; and the word for gold in Nahuatl, the language of the Aztecs of Mexico, is teocuitlatl (excrement of the gods). The Inka considered the mountains where the metal was found to be huacas (sacred places) and are said to have made offerings to the mines. The peoples of Costa Rica and Panama looked upon gold collecting as a sacred activity and purified their bodies by fasting for several days beforehand to ensure success. Gold was associated with worldly power, status, and wealth. In the vast Inka empire, which in the early sixteenth century stretched from Ecuador to central Chile and Bolivia, gold was the property of the Inka rulers; no commoner could own even the smallest bit. Similarly, the powerful rulers of the Aztecs, whose empire in the sixteenth century extended from the Pacific Ocean to the Gulf of Mexico, had sole control over mines and workshops. Only emperors were entitled to gift gold objects, usually to reward exceptionally brave soldiers, who wore the ornaments proudly as badges of honor.” 
Quotes from Heidi King, “Gold in Ancient America” (The metropolitan Museum of Art Bulletin), New Series, Vol. 59, No. 4, Gold of the Americas (Spring 2002), pp.5-55
Pair of Condor Earflares 
Culture - Moche (Loma Negra)Date - 2nd-3rd CenturyMeasurements - 3” diameterMaterial - Silver, Gold, Gilded Copper, ShellIdentification # - 6077, 6078Repository - The Metropolitan Museum of ArtWebsite - http://www.metmuseum.org

ANCIENT MODS UPDATE, 12/4/11 - Gold Standard (2nd Century C.E.)

I wonder if this would be acceptable today - wearing an earring post about 3/4” in diameter with a front face of 3”. I suspect there might be an underlying machismo that would interpret this as “pretending” to have ears stretched larger than they actually are.  

Size isn’t all that matters though. Symbolism and substance count too.

In many cultures, costume was a mechanism for conveying status (or identity), and being able to effectively communicate this is important to understanding how people ought to relate to you. A large front diameter, besides creating an iconic silhouette of authority, allows a broader planar dimension in which to craft a clear symbol - in this case of a pair of mirrored condors.

“The Andean condor, identified by the large caruncle at the base of its beak and the wattle around its neck, is the largest bird of prey alive today. A frequent theme in Moche art, condors may have been associated with predation, death, and sacrifice…” (HK)

The physical matter from which this ornament is fabricated - silver, gold and shell - were often reserved for elite members of ancient South American cultures. Copper and lesser stones would be permissible for lower members with rare materials, like spondylus shell, being especially prized. Consider that, 

“For the peoples of ancient America gold was endowed with spiritual and symbolic meaning. The Inka of Peru thought of gold as the rain of the sun, a major deity; and the word for gold in Nahuatl, the language of the Aztecs of Mexico, is teocuitlatl (excrement of the gods). The Inka considered the mountains where the metal was found to be huacas (sacred places) and are said to have made offerings to the mines. The peoples of Costa Rica and Panama looked upon gold collecting as a sacred activity and purified their bodies by fasting for several days beforehand to ensure success. Gold was associated with worldly power, status, and wealth. In the vast Inka empire, which in the early sixteenth century stretched from Ecuador to central Chile and Bolivia, gold was the property of the Inka rulers; no commoner could own even the smallest bit. Similarly, the powerful rulers of the Aztecs, whose empire in the sixteenth century extended from the Pacific Ocean to the Gulf of Mexico, had sole control over mines and workshops. Only emperors were entitled to gift gold objects, usually to reward exceptionally brave soldiers, who wore the ornaments proudly as badges of honor.” 

Quotes from Heidi King, “Gold in Ancient America”
(The metropolitan Museum of Art Bulletin), New Series, Vol. 59, No. 4, Gold of the Americas (Spring 2002), pp.5-55

Pair of Condor Earflares 

Culture - Moche (Loma Negra)
Date - 2nd-3rd Century
Measurements - 3” diameter
Material - Silver, Gold, Gilded Copper, Shell
Identification # - 6077, 6078
Repository - The Metropolitan Museum of Art
Website - http://www.metmuseum.org


Tags: Ancient America Ancient Mods Update Body Jewelry Gauges Gold Jewelry Meriken Metals Plugs Precolumbian Art Ryan Holandes stretch stretcher ears earring holes stretched ears piercings body mods tunnels flares big lobes modifications
4 notes
~ Thursday, December 1 ~
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I saw this pretty spread of tools and had some thoughts on the Use of a Dermal Punch on the Lobes:
I’m not a piercer, so maybe I shouldn’t get into this…That said, here I go.
As a jeweler and witness to the spread of body mods into mainstream culture, it troubles me to hear about folks punching their lobes in order to have instant “gauges”. I’ve seen a few images on tumblr recently, and it makes me sad, because I want healthy, fat lobes that will last and grow a lifetime. To my knowledge,
“…it is healthier to have a needle piercing performed, and then gradually stretch the piercing to the desired size. Dermal punches remove tissue, which, if used on earlobes, can cause thin lobes, which will be detrimental to further stretching. It is best to have as much tissue in your lobes as possible if you wish to stretch them—this will keep your ears and your piercings safe and happy.” (source: PainfulPleasures.com)
Stretching is a process that can bring us in tune with our bodies, especially as we learn both the potential and the limitations of healing. It reveals much about our status as regenerative organic beings. All I’m saying is that we should accept this process as a life-time endeavor. It inherently takes time. No one is judging you because you’re still small. ;)
Of course, your local piercing professional may deem the punch to be perfectly appropriate if you desire large diameter holes in your cartilage (ie. conch / flat, etc.) quickly, as this tissue is more resistant to distention and might be as limited as 1mm growth/year*. But I think many piercers would agree that it’s just gratuitous to punch lobes, which will readily distend, given a bit of patience.
With love for fat lobes, Ryan. 
*informal conversation with my piercing artist. p.s. dear professionals, please help me to correct any misinformation I may have inadvertently posted.
sowouldvei:

sterile dermal biopsy punch…

I saw this pretty spread of tools and had some thoughts on the Use of a Dermal Punch on the Lobes:

I’m not a piercer, so maybe I shouldn’t get into this…That said, here I go.

As a jeweler and witness to the spread of body mods into mainstream culture, it troubles me to hear about folks punching their lobes in order to have instant “gauges”. I’ve seen a few images on tumblr recently, and it makes me sad, because I want healthy, fat lobes that will last and grow a lifetime. To my knowledge,

“…it is healthier to have a needle piercing performed, and then gradually stretch the piercing to the desired size. Dermal punches remove tissue, which, if used on earlobes, can cause thin lobes, which will be detrimental to further stretching. It is best to have as much tissue in your lobes as possible if you wish to stretch them—this will keep your ears and your piercings safe and happy.” (source: PainfulPleasures.com)

Stretching is a process that can bring us in tune with our bodies, especially as we learn both the potential and the limitations of healing. It reveals much about our status as regenerative organic beings. All I’m saying is that we should accept this process as a life-time endeavor. It inherently takes time. No one is judging you because you’re still small. ;)

Of course, your local piercing professional may deem the punch to be perfectly appropriate if you desire large diameter holes in your cartilage (ie. conch / flat, etc.) quickly, as this tissue is more resistant to distention and might be as limited as 1mm growth/year*. But I think many piercers would agree that it’s just gratuitous to punch lobes, which will readily distend, given a bit of patience.

With love for fat lobes,
Ryan. 

*informal conversation with my piercing artist.
p.s. dear professionals, please help me to correct any misinformation I may have inadvertently posted.

sowouldvei:

sterile dermal biopsy punch…

Tags: Dermal Punch Piercing Technique Body Piercing Stretched ears Cartilage piercing Commentary meriken metals ryan holandes
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